Friday Readings: The Legacy of Paolo di Marchi and Isole e Olena

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To Justin Keay

Release: January 27, 2023

Justin Keay reports a recent visit to Paolo di Marchi at the Isole e Olena winery towards the end of 2022. In 2022, Di Marchi completes his last vintage after almost 50 years.

On March 7th, Paolo Di Marchi of Tuscany’s Isole e Olena estate will be in London to showcase his most famous wines, including the iconic Ceparello vertical wine, in an all-day Sangiovese reset tasting. However, for the many admirers of this sublime mansion, his appearance will be both a celebration and a source of grief.

Last year, 71-year-old Di Marchi handed over control of the estate first founded by his father in 1956 to French investment group EPI and others, owners of Biondi Santi, making the 2022 vintage his final vintage. rice field.

He sold the property with deep apprehension after being shaken by a potentially fatal car accident two years ago, but determined to secure the future of this highly regarded property.

“I was very lucky to survive the crash. Had I been on the highway, the outcome could have been very different. My heart is split, part of me is happy because selling the property will be positive for my family’s future welfare and it will be in very good hands But I’m sad because this has been my life since I moved from Piedmont in 1976 and my wife hasn’t wanted to leave our home for years.

Walking with Di Marchi through the wineries, which are located in the heart of the Chianti region and consist of two largely dilapidated villages, Isole and Olena, you’ll understand why it’s so hard to leave. This is a truly beautiful and special place. Especially he harvests grapes in mid-September and the winery is active. His two old villages, abandoned in the 1960s, are slowly being revived through compassionate renovations.

“There may be ghosts here, but they are happy,” says Di Marchi.

During that time, the 56 hectares of vineyards are lovingly maintained and produce around 250,000 bottles of seven different wines per year. In addition to the Sangiovese of Separallo and Chianti, there is Canaiolo, Syrah, Cabernet, his Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which make up his 15% of his Classico, Chianti of his Marchi.

After tasting these wines with Di Marchi at the estate, the perfection of the Ceparallo (usually 45,000 bottles produced) was evident, especially in 2016 and 2019, the former showing great freshness and excellent aromatics of the cooler vintage. , the latter with rich fruit and balance from what Di Marchi calls “the perfect vintage”.

The 2007 is still surprisingly fresh and vibrant, but the 2011 was a warm vintage and one of the few vintages not to contain 100% Sangiovese. But the biggest surprise was another lesser-known wine, the elegantly labeled and presented Collezione Privata di Marchi. The Chardonnay 2020 is rich and round with flavors of almond, white peach and vanilla with just the right amount of oak to support the fruit. The freshness here is enhanced by the Sterubin cap, which Di Marchi says reduces sulfites in the wine. It seems that it also supports long finish.

The Syrah 2018 is spectacular and arguably the most impressive Italian Syrah I have tasted, with flavors of cassis, black pepper, spice and blackberry on the palate and the wine aged in barrique for 18 months. It has a solid and balanced body. The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is equally impressive. A deep ruby red with cassis, coffee and great balance, with fine acidity under firm tannins. Like Syrah, it will age for many years.

Di Marchi seems proud of this collection that bears his name and his Chianti Classico, which, like his more famous Ceparello, is considered one of the best in the region. The first vintage was produced in his 1980.

“Balance and finesse are what I always aim for in all my wines. I look for harmony and elegance, not over-extraction. say.

what’s next? Dimarchi says he plans to spend time helping his son Luca at Alto Proprieta, a family-owned winery in Piedmont. He is shy about staying with Isolee his Olena as a mentor, but when asked, he claims that the new owner understandably has different ideas.

But I can’t imagine this beautiful winery without the man who has made the Italian wine map his home for nearly 50 years. Maybe he will continue to exist in the cellars and vines, mingling with the happy ghosts in Isole and Olena’s old stone house.

Isole e Olena is imported into the UK by Liberty Wines.